to Get Two Pieces Jointed
the event that your design calls for two pieces to be jointed
together to develop the proper thickness, the following suggestions
may be of help. Lay out one profile on the stock, being sure
that the design does not overlap the edge. Have on hand a duplicate
piece of stock the same size as the first one. Using the jack
plane, joint both faces to be joined so that the grain in both
pieces runs the same way. Do not glue together at this point;
wait. Profile out one piece, either with the power tools or
with the scroll saw, being sure you stay outside the lines.
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the profiled piece on top of the other one, jointed faces together,
and trace around the first piece, then cut carefully about the
lines on the second piece. It will be a trifle larger than the
first one. Then glue and clamp both pieces of profiled stock
together. When the glue has set-usually overnight-pare off the
sides of the larger piece to fit the top piece. Then you are
ready to pare off both pieces to the exact profile you want
procedures outlined above hold true for any step in the carving
where two or more thicknesses of stock are required to develop
a given part. Built-up sections of the carving that are all
within its periphery are jointed together in somewhat different
manner. The steps that I follow in this instance are these:
Joint the face of that portion of the carving that will form
the base. Joint the piece that is to be applied to the base
stock, after it has been roughly outlined and sawed or planed
to the desired thickness.
and countersink the necessary holes so that the two pieces of
stock can be held in place while they are bosted out; then bost
out. Index the overlay (the second piece of stock) at two points,
remove the wood screws, apply glue, replace the screws and draw
the two pieces together as tightly as possible with the screws.
Use additional clamps if necessary to be sure that equal pressure
is applied throughout the joint. This is best determined by
the fact that, if in applying glue to both faces in equal amounts
and having it spread about in equal quantity, about the same
amount of glue will be squeezed out at the edges of the pieces.
tip about placing holes-be sure that the screw holes do not
come close to the edges where you may hit them with the carving
tools. If you want to make doubly sure that you will never hit
a metal screw with the carving tools: counter-bore the holes
so that, regardless of the thickness of the stock, the shank
of the screw (the unthreaded portion of the wood screw below
the head) is left in the overlay.
sure that, when you drill the holes in the overlay, the holes
in the base coincide with them. You can fill the counter-bored
holes with as many plugs as necessary to bring the top of the
top plug up to the face of the overlay or use long plugs; either
way is satisfactory.
fact must be kept in mind always. You cannot joint two pieces
of stock together using the mill-planed faces. You must hand-plane
each piece to a perfect fit before you can be sure that the
joints will take glue and hold together properly.
is the art of planing parts to make each piece perfectly smooth
and flat so that, when two pieces are put together, they fit
with no high or low spots. For face jointing-that is, planing
the flat sides of two pieces to be jointed-set the blade of
the plane fine. On the faces of the pieces that are to be joined
by glue, take off very thin curls; start planing across the
grain, then lengthwise with the run of the grain. Keep at it
on both pieces until you get as perfect a fit as you can. Don't
forget that a lot of fine cuts are better than a few coarse
cuts and far easier to do.
is the technical term for making the rough cuts, or rough carving.
Its purpose is to eliminate all the surplus wood from the face
of the piece.